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Hanoi On Film
November 16, 2019Excuse the kitchen roll in the photo and excuse me(!) for not ever giving Hanoi a serious second. Hanoi deserves every time I can give and has also become one of my favourite cities that I want to go back to. I've got to admit that Vietnam was never on my travel bucket list, let alone Hanoi. Back then when I told my friends about my upcoming trip to Hanoi, 10 out of 10 friends gave negative reviews because of their travelling experiences to Ho Chi Minh and hence they've classified the overall of Vietnam as a no-go. Even so, I decided to travel to Hanoi with an open heart and let me tell you, this city stole my heart away on the first night itself! I love coriander and I think that says it all.
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After unpacking our luggages at our Airbnb, we headed out to Serein Cafe for a drink and also to have a night view of the train passing through the Long Bien Bridge. We weren't used to the timing yet so when we arrived, the cakes were sold out and it was 15 minutes to pitch darkness and that was it. We did saw a train pass by but other than that the view was almost invisible.
The first challenge while on our way to dinner was crossing the busy roads which we wasted a lot of time trying to. It was very overwhelming the first time but let me tell you, just pretend that you are invincible and you'll get to your destination in no time. Banh Mi 25, yes, can someone please bring it over to Malaysia?? The Egg and Cheese Banh Mi was so good (with coriander OF COURSE) that I wished I had another stomach for another serving!
With all the banh mi in our tummy (see how it rhymes), we took a stroll at Hoan Kiem Lake and were very pleased to see so many cats and dogs there. Everyone brought their pets out for a walk and it was such a rare sight (for the both us at least) to see leashed cats and unleashed dogs that followed their owners without straying too far. Not only were the pets that stole the spotlight, this part of the city is super chill and there were a lot of street performers. My favourite has got to be this golden couple entertaining the crowd with their performance of the saxophone and violin. This is real talk about doing what you love with the person you love, oooh~!
Another morning in Hanoi and we wasted no time to explore the streets outside our Airbnb. The chosen spot for breakfast was Madam Huong's and mind you that this local bakery is not touristy at all, so prepare to use body language, because "no English". I just needed 3 pastries but it took me more than 5 minutes at the cashier looking like a flapping duck. Anyway, we ordered this wow-looking and wow-tasting coconut coffee at KAFA (right beside Madam Huong's) and yo, it was so good. The best part of all, we were having breakfast Vietnamese-style, on small chairs and tables on the sidewalk, watching the cars and bikes pass by. I loved this breakfast so much, everything was perfect, especially the croissant from Madam Huong's bakery. So far every thing seems so great in Hanoi, where my 10 hater friends at?!
First stop after our hearty breakfast was the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum where we got to see Uncle Ho's mummified body in this dim, almost darkroom-like hall with only his see-through glass coffin being the major light source there. For someone who has always been fascinated with mummies, history, and architecture (the mausoleum facade and interior cannot get any more communist than it already is), this was one of the most anticipated part of the trip for me. I've got to say, seeing a mummified body was one thing but also a prominent political figure that everyone has so much respect for is another thing. Though this place gives me some major chills, I would definitely visit Uncle Ho again when I'm back in Hanoi.
There were a few more checkpoints to our itinerary that were within the radius of the mausoleum which I really enjoyed also such as Ho Chi Minh's historic home, museum, one-pillar pagoda, and Ba Dinh Square. It was at the historic home that we got to see his car collections as well as his garden filled with pomelo trees (this one was more interesting).
Thang Long Citadel is by far, the only place that I've ever felt the closest to being an ancient princess. Maybe I've yet to walk down the courtyard of Supreme Harmony in Beijing to feel like one, but I'm pretty satisfied with this particular small-scaled citadel. What I like about this place is how calm and serene it is on the surface but lo and behold, there were underground tunnels used during the resistance war with the US. I really like this part of the citadel, it made me feel like I was part of some secret society.
Another very interesting place we visited was the Temple Of Literature (Văn Miếu) which was flooded with students taking graduation photos and praying to Confucius and his disciples. It was a busy place with a lot of things to do such as rubbing the belly of the crane statue for fortune, rubbing the head of the turtle statue for longevity, calligraphy, and many more. And yes I rubbed the crane's belly and turtle's head so that the digits in my bank account would grow while I transition to an immortal on Earth.
Coffee o'clock at Cafe Giang for my first ever egg coffee! The place was filled to the brim (like my egg coffee) but I didn't mind the crowd at all because coffee is so good. I highly recommend drinking the hot egg coffee over the cold one because the taste is much more rich and satisfying than a diluted version. I don't consider myself a coffee person but 10/10 would come back here for a cuppa.
As we were back to the Hoan Kiem Lake area, our next stop was Ngoc Son Temple. As a fan of architecture and mystery, I couldn't help but to be enchanted at Turtle Tower that floats on the middle of the lake without any means of access. And when I thought that was all to the magic of this place, I saw this cat, possibly sleeping, in such posture at the front of the altar amidst all the hoos and haas by hoomans...it must be meditating, it must be KARIN (Dragonball reference, just in case)!!
St. Joseph Cathedral was just around the corner and because it was built in the Neo-Gothic style, I had to go pay this place of worship a visit. We arrived slightly late and the church was in the midst of closing for the day but I still got to see the facade and interior to my satisfaction (my photo doesn't do it justice but oh well, 55mm lens problem). Compared to the St. Mary's Cathedral in Jakarta which I visited in March, St. Joseph Cathedral probably needs more care and some effort to bring its building back to how it looked at the beginning. Though the way it is now can also be seen as a way to show how historical it is.
Cafe Dinh is also another hotspot for egg coffee and let me tell you, the staircase and alley leading up to this coffee place cannot get any dodgier. By the way, I preferred Cafe Giang's coffee over Cafe Dinh's because of the egg-coffee ratio which I thought was more well-balanced (the owner at Giang is more welcoming and funny too). The coffee shop is located at the Hoan Kiem Lake area and since it was a weekend, the roads were closed for everyone to utilize the space and set up activity spots here and there. There were teenagers shooting their dance videos, there were also performances of many kind, some took this chance to host gatherings, making it all a lively Sunday.
I also took the opportunity of our free and easy day to visit the post office there and bought 4 pieces of stamps from each of the designs that were available just so that I have spares and can give some away to my non-existent penpals.
I also took the opportunity of our free and easy day to visit the post office there and bought 4 pieces of stamps from each of the designs that were available just so that I have spares and can give some away to my non-existent penpals.
However, we've been to the Hoan Kiem Lake area too many times and wanted to explore out of it. So we came up with an impromptu plan to visit Hanoi's largest lake, the West Lake. The area around the West Lake was not crowded, not touristy, and very laidback. It is there that we visited Quan Thanh Temple which was just a street away from the beautiful lake and has a tree-shaded courtyard that is so relaxing and beautiful, I could sit there for hours with a book.
From there we walked to The Bookworm Bookshop and I got myself two very vintage (pages were falling off) French books - Athalie by Jean Racine and Poesies Choisies by Alphonse de Lamartine. Though I know nothing of the French language, I was determine to translate and maybe learn a word or two (good luck to my lazy ass). Speaking about the randomness of an Aquarius scoring such a meaningful random book, picking up Athalie was purely unintentional and only did I found out later who Racine was and how this tragedy was a masterpiece of his time.
For dinner, we had chicken pho at a random store before heading to Ta Hein beer street for a drink. As always, the place was very happening though a Sunday night. Beers are super, super cheap, like..REALLY CHEAP (especially those in barrels, operated by a middle-aged man by the street). There were also buy 1 free 1 promotions after 6PM which obviously encouraged more drinking.
We headed back early as we were to go on a Ha Long Bay cruise the very next day. Ha Long Bay was amazing and with that said, has a post on it's own HERE.
The night we came back from Ha Long Bay, we decided to eat fancy, so we dined at 4P Pizza which I've got to say, the best pizza I've ever had so far! In actual fact, we dined at 4P Pizza for dinner twice, two nights in a row, each time at a different branch. There was no picking on which flavour was the best because all of it were unique on its own. I've listed down the flavours we tried on my Hanoi Address Book post HERE.
We headed back early as we were to go on a Ha Long Bay cruise the very next day. Ha Long Bay was amazing and with that said, has a post on it's own HERE.
The night we came back from Ha Long Bay, we decided to eat fancy, so we dined at 4P Pizza which I've got to say, the best pizza I've ever had so far! In actual fact, we dined at 4P Pizza for dinner twice, two nights in a row, each time at a different branch. There was no picking on which flavour was the best because all of it were unique on its own. I've listed down the flavours we tried on my Hanoi Address Book post HERE.
The last day of our Hanoi trip required a little bit of travelling as we planned to go over to Bat Trang Pottery Village and the Long Bien Flower Plateau. We started the day with egg coffee (again) and banh mi (again), at Hidden Gem Coffee. The verdict, egg coffee at Cafe Giang and Banh Mi 25 were still the best.
We arrived at Long Bien Plateau to many couples taking their wedding photos under the humid afternoon sun. The place wasn't in full bloom yet but still very Instagram-able if you have the skills. My focus was on the beautiful flowers of course and also helping Abang to take 101 photos.
Next stop was Bat Trang Pottery Village and gosh, I wished I had all the money in the world to buy all these really lovely ceramics, pots, and statues! The prices are reasonable and negotiable, especially if you buy more. It is here that I got my friends mini ceramic plates as a souvenir and honestly it was so hard to choose because the designs were really pretty! The next time when I have a home of my own, I am coming back here to get some decorative items.
With that, my trip to Hanoi came to an end. I was honestly so bummed that I hadn't an extra day or two to enjoy my favourite food one last time and also to shop at all these fake but good quality apparel stores (I strongly believe that they were rejected factory goods though) that were selling winter jackets and sports wear at a delightfully low price. The best buy from this trip goes to the "North Face" jacket I bought for MYR 80 which could keep me warm in Hokkaido when I went in December, including the skiing and everything.
Food and shopping in Hanoi is way cheaper than Bangkok. Plus, go in November and you will need to put on a coat to keep warm during the day and night. Everyone we met were very welcoming and lovely, a far cry from the stories I've heard about the Vietnamese. My conclusion was that if anyone ever asked me for advice on travelling to Vietnam, I would suggest Hanoi first and then only Ho Chi Minh city. Simply because Hanoi is a much better ambassador and definitely more tourist-friendly.
There is one special place I would want to point out, and that's Tao Pho Jellybean. After booking our Airbnb, I immediately did a search on the area and found this shop located right outside of our stay. We love how this soybean shop allows us to customize our bowl of soybean curd with toppings of our own liking. They also serve really hearty pastries and sandwiches which I had one of the mornings. Most importantly, the price is so cheap that it makes it even more tastier.
If you think we were crazy by having pizza two nights in a row. You were wrong. We had Tao Pho Jellybean every day of our trip whether its for supper or a morning snack, we had it slotted somewhere in between our daily itineraries. The staffs were super cute and friendly, teaching us how to order in Vietnamese and the local patrons were all so kind to let us know that our queue number has been called (remember, "no English"). And honestly it was nice to dine at a place where we were the only tourist.
As I'm typing this, I am longing for my daily strolls at Hoan Kiem Lake, the amazing yoghurt popsicles by the streets, the crazy traffic and roads that I have to cross, the dirt cheap beer that warms you during the night, the romantic French-inspired architectures, the delicious catfish and pork dishes they serve, the dogs and cats at the park, and the lovely locals that kept mistaking us for locals...I miss Hanoi already and I cannot wait to come back or better, visit another part of Vietnam soon!
P/S: While I was in Hanoi, I received many positive responses regarding the Airbnb that I was accommodating at. So I've decided to start an address book post where I will filter the places I stay/visit/eat/shop during my travels and list it down as personal recommendations. Here you go, my Hanoi Address Book.
xx,
R
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All film photos were taken with the Pentax Spotmatic with the Kodak Pro Image 200 and Canon SXL with the Kodak Colorplus 200.
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